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Mold Handles

Posted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 9:00 pm
by 5shooter
Here are some more Midway prices. Lee 6 cavity handles $13 and RCBS handles $40. I have used both handles with Mountain Molds and have had good luck with both. The RCBS handles seem to keep the molds closer to the pivot and are more square with the molds for less flopping around when opening and closing molds. The Lee's work great for me and would probably have less slop when opening and closing if some lead was poured in the handle / molds as per Mountain Mold suggestions. I haven't tried that yet, but have had great results with both handles. It seems to me that 3 sets of Lee handles would be way better to have than one set of RCBS handles. Is there some advantage to the high dollar RCBS handles that I am not aware of? Are there other handles out there that work better? Will the Lee handles work with Lyman and/or RCBS Molds?

Re: Mold Handles

Posted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 9:15 pm
by mtngun
I think the Lee handles will work with RCBS and Lyman molds. Same prong thickness.

Most brands of handles work on most brands of 2-cavity blocks, except that Lyman/Saeco handles may need to be modified as described elsewhere on this site.

Lyman handles may have varied over the years. Lyman handles I purchased about 5 years ago appear to be identical to Saeco handles. They are very sturdy and comfortable to use.

I use both Lee and RCBS on a day to day basis. The RCBS is a little gentler on the blocks. The lead-behind-the-handle trick will make either handle close the block smoother.

One time I dropped a Lee handle on the floor and one steel prong broke in two as if it were glass. It must be some kind of cast steel. I welded it back together and it's still in use. OK, so Lee quality is not the greatest, but still, it's just a handle, and it does the job.

With any brand, and especially Lee, the wooden handles are apt to slide off. I've had good luck sticking them on with JB weld, after filing a few notches in the metal barb so the JB has something to grab hold of.

Re: Mold Handles

Posted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 9:07 am
by jbquack1
Good, as i purchased two more molds from dan and have one more planned,and was wondering about lee's durability.

Re: LEE Mold Handles

Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 9:40 am
by walstr
From 2-15-2009:
In anticipation of receiving my 1st MM, I ordered a LEE 6-Cav handle. What does " The lead-behind-the-handle trick will make either handle close the block smoother." from a post 2-15-2009?

Re: Mold Handles

Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 9:54 am
by mtngun
I'll try to post some pictures, but it won't be today. Basically, with the mold closed, pour lead in the gap between the end of the handle and the block.

Re: Mold Handles

Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 10:48 am
by walstr
Sorry, still not 'seeing' it. You mean, pour lead around the handle pivot to take up slack?

Re: Mold Handles

Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 12:11 pm
by mtngun
A bit sloppy because both the pot and the mold were too cold, but this shows the general idea.

Re: Mold Handles

Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 9:36 pm
by walstr
Alrighty then, I see what you're sayin'. Thanks again for taking the time. I'll keep this 'fix' in mind.

I'm prepping my smelted ingots for anticipated arrival of the 45-70-405wj mold. My dear wifey is happy I'm happy, and says, she really doesn't need to know exactly why. That's part of why our 47 yr. partnership is still OK, I guess.

I'm thinkin' I'll touch the nose of my 'factory'/'harvesting' loads in RED paint for HOT & Pink for Plinking. Do you color code any rnds or keep them in marked boxes? Here's how I carry rnds in an Indian Wars era bandolier I crafted.
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DSC06173 Copy crop'd to 29KB.jpg (29.8 KiB) Viewed 6424 times

Re: Mold Handles

Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2015 7:58 am
by mtngun
No, I don't color code loads. Except for experimental loads that I shoot at the benchrest, all my guns use only one load.